Tag Archives: mason bees

Red wine trap for controlling Houdini flies at bee hotels

Per posts on Reddit and Facebook, jars baited with malbec can trap Houdini flies (Cacoxenus indagator), an invasive kleptoparasite of solitary bees in the genus Osmia. The species was first reported in New York in 2011 and has since appeared in Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Virginia, Washington, and British Columbia. For anyone with an insect hotel in an affected area, brood losses can be considerable so the news of a control method is welcome news. Currently hotel owners deal with the parasites by squishing them one by one, vacuuming them up, or trapping them on sticky cards situated in the eaves. All of these techniques seem futile given that a single Houdini fly can leave hundreds of eggs.

The trap

The general idea is to put the wine into a container that has small, fly-sized holes, then situate in a nook in your insect hotel. I opted to use 2-oz containers that I had sitting around but several posters on reddit use small mason jars. I then drilled four, 1/8″ holes in the lids, attached segments of cork with a 1 5/8″ screw to either the side of the container or the lid, and then screwed it to the hotel.

Evidence that it works

I set mine up too late in the season to estimate how many Houdini flies can be trapped per day, but I can confirm that some did go inside the traps and drown. Here are two:

Small waterlogged flies are difficult to identify even when you have decent photographs, so I eventually fitted the containers with sticky cards that would immobilize insects before they drowned. Here’s a trap attached via the lid and a Houdini fly that got stuck:

I should emphasize that my traps also caught dozens of small fruit flies that were not Houdini flies. So if you are trying this trap method be cautious in deciding whether it’s actually working or whether it’s just attracting small flies that happen to like red wine. I encourage everyone to use sticky cards and to submit photographs for ID confirmation to either BugGuide (North America only) or iNaturalist. If you opt for the latter you’ll likely get input from me within 24 hours (I’ve ID’d 200 Houdini flies already).

Is it safe for bees?

The holes are too small for many mason bee species but there are plenty of solitary bees that could fit into 1/8″ holes if they wanted to try. So far, however, none has become stuck in any of my nine traps. Some of the bees even use them as landing platforms because the sun hits them in the afternoon.

Design tips

Some thoughts that I’ll update as I continue with testing.

  • Opt for clear-sided containers so you have a better view of what is inside.
  • I’m now using a slightly smaller drill bit because 1/8″ allows rather big flies to enter.
  • Reddit user atrailofdisasters uses a red-pepper shaker, a solution that might work well for those who don’t have a drill and collection of small bits.

What wines work best?

Per reddit, the person who came up with the trap idea, Nicole Kenney, of Portland, Oregon, tested different wines for several years and decided that red wine, especially Argentinian malbec, is best. I have no idea how she did the tests but I’ll link to more information when I can find it. I’ve only tried malbec in mine but will do some comparisons next year during peak Houdini-fly season. Malbec is an old grape grown around the world but apparently thrives in Argentina and much of the acreage is in the mountains. It would be very interesting to know exactly which component is attracting the Houdini flies, of course.

Why does it work?

Houdini flies are members of the vinegar fly family (Drosophilidae) and are known to like fermenting fruit juice (source) so it’s not a surprise they are attracted to wine. And all animals are lazy so if there is food near where females are busy ovipositing, they will happily take a break to a have a drink.

More information

If you’d like to see photographs of Houdini flies I have about 20 on iNaturalist.

Please also see my blog post, “Houdini fly alert for owners of insect hotels.”

Bee and wasp hotels on iNaturalist

If you’re fond of hole-nesting bees and wasps, please join the new “Bee and Wasp Hotels” project on iNaturalist.org to document the guests and hangerson that arrive at your hotel.

Currently the most photographed visitor is the four-toothed mason wasp (Monobia quadridens). But also plenty of mason bees as well as parasites looking for mason bees. There has also been a slug sighting (don’t ask). 

If this sounds fun but you don’t have a hotel, here are my thoughts on building one.

Mason bee hotel construction

I built a hotel for mason bees, leafcutting bees, and hole-nesting parasitic wasps and thought I’d post pics in case anybody is looking for tips on how to make one. Overall dimensions are 12″ (W) x 25″ (H) x 11″ (D) and situated facing southeast so that it catches some good morning sun (the bees like that). I gave it three levels so that I can fuss with one level without disrupting all the tenants (bees hate that), plus used dado joints give the whole structure some stability when fully loaded. The hotel is elevated to 4 feet on a 4 x 4″ post so that I can easily take photographs without stooping.

Mason bee hotel

I also have a piece of galvanized hardware cloth that can be attached (pic below), after all the holes are filled, to keep woodpeckers away. The wire is held by six neodymium magnets glued into small insets on each side. I’ll probably redo it with larger-hole chicken wire, and make it project farther away from the surface. The back of the hotel is a slab of 2×10. To attach the hotel to a post I used a small piece of wood that is first attached to the post, then attached to bottom of the house via four screws (shown below). Everything is just scrap wood from some dismantled cedar planters. Below are some pics:

Hole diameters

There are hundreds of different bee (Megachilidae) and wasp species that nest in holes, and all have slightly different preferences for wood type, hole diameter, and depth, so I’ve offered them a variety of accommodations in reeds, logs, and milled lumber, all cut into 7-inch lengths. The reeds are from Phragmites, and each section is cut so that the end has a node, leaving approximately 6 1/2 inches of usable tube. Logs and blocks are drilled with variable sizes of bits. The large log on bottom right also has a mix of 7/16-in and 1/8-in holes, some of which are already filled up (with mixture of nectar, mud, pebbles). Directly above the large log are two smaller ones that show how you can insert 6-in paper tubes into holes. At the end of the season you can easy pull those tubes out and transfer them to a protected location or refrigerator to overwinter. The other advantage of these disposable paper tubes is that you can easily unwind them to collect, study, and clean the pupae. The other paper tube is just a drinking straw I found on Amazon. These tubes will probably not be used this summer but I have them there just in case (the tubes are used by Spring mason bees and my house went up a bit too late this spring to attract any, I think). Finally, I have a few large-bore holes up in the attic space just in case that might appeal to a larger bee or wasp, though I probably won’t get a taker.

At the end of the season I’m going to gather up all the wood and reeds and place them in a protected location until next year. I’ll probably end up building a hatching box. After emergence ends I’ll either clean out the wood for reuse or throw it out. You need to do one or the other or risk causing diseases, mites, and parasitoids to build up in your bee house. To give you a visual on one risk, here’s a photo of a mason bee loaded up with phoretic mites. See also the Maclvor and Packer 2015 article, below.

Design tips

  1. For larger hole sizes you want, ideally, 6 inches of depth. Shorter (4″) tunnels would be OK but can result in a male-biased brood sex ratios. If you want to encourage population growth, encouraging females is important.
  2. To keep everything dry on something this tall you need a generous roof overhang. Mine extends 5 inches beyond the front of the shelf, plus the wood sections and reeds are set back from that by another inch or so. If you have a shorter house you can have a smaller roof.
  3. Burning the front of the wood allows bees to more easily find their holes, plus the darker surface causes the wood to heat up faster in the morning sun.
  4. Don’t use treated lumber or fresh cedar. Kills the larvae, apparently, or at least that’s the recommendation on the internet.
  5. Pine is fine but I think harder wood is preferable because the drilled holes are smoother.

My goals for building this house are mainly for edutainment (please join my iNaturalist project if you’re interested) but a bonus would be better pollination of my kiwi vine and strawberries. But that’s not a guaranteed because many solitary bees are oligolectic (collect pollen from only certain species of plants), and I’m not sure which species specialize on Actinidia and Frageria. I’m looking forward to next year when I can put out the blocks for (larger) spring mason bees, which I think are good for early strawberry pollination.

UPDATE: New blocks for 2019

Here’s a photograph of the fresh nesting accommodations I installed in the above hotel. Blocks have a variety of hole diameters to accommodate a variety of bee and wasp species: 3/16″, 5/16″, 5/8″, and 12mm. Hipster add-on apartment is for smaller Hymenopterans and is made from a Saint Benjamin Brewing Little White Lies IPA (design by Kathryn Moran) can packed with 5 1/2″ sections of swamp milkweed and wild begamot.

Three-level bee and wasp hotel

Further reading