Tag Archives: gardening

Birds are eating my pea plants

This spring I decided to figure out which bird species are decimating my peas, with the hope that an ID might help me better protect my crop next year. Sneaking up on my allotment so as not to spook the birds, it didn’t take me long to figure out that the culprits were mainly house sparrows. Usually a large flock of them. As proof, here’s Exhibit A, a female house sparrow with a big chunk of a leaf in her mouth.

But I’ve also observed northern cardinals and American goldfinches doing the same, so I can’t blame everything on the sparrows. Indeed, I suspect I’d see additional species helping themselves if I camped out under cover of a bird blind for a day. Pea shoots are just that good.

Naturally, I immediately ran out and purchased bird netting and fully enclosed my trellises in a large box, complete with multiple doors made from overlapped netting, all pegged at the ground with rocks. The netting is delicate and black so it’s hard to see in the photograph below but trust me, it’s there and it covers everything rather tightly.

But after I set it all up the damage to the pea plants continued at pretty much the same level as before. Please refer to Exhibit A, above, and note how the background of the photograph shows the bird netting — the birds just found tiny gaps in the netting, ate their fill, then let themselves out. The cardinals and finches weren’t deterred much, either, and at one point I saw all three species inside, happily munching away.

Below are photographs of the damage in case you’re interested why I’m so worked up about this situation: growth on primary meristems are nibbled off, leaves covered in tiny beak-shaped compression wounds, shoots bent when fat birds perch on the stem while foraging, severed branches left on the ground. When I surprised the birds I could see them flying off with pieces still in their beaks.

I should point out that my allotment is just one of many, and other people have completely unprotected pea plants (gasp!). So I’m wondering, why bother navigating my cage system when there is plenty to eat elsewhere?? Although other people’s plants certainly show damage, whenever I spy on the gardens from afar the birds seem to be on mine plot, on my peas. I’m thinking they must prefer the varieties I’ve planted, all heirloom varieties that climb (‘First 13’, ‘Magnolia Blossom’, ‘Tall Telephone’, and ‘Purple Podded’).

Perhaps the dwarf, self-supporting varieties that most people grow have more lignin and such in the stems and leaves, rendering them less palatable to birds. In support, I’d note that of the varieties I have the birds seem to prefer ‘Magnolia Blossom’, a sugar snap pea (Pisum sativum var. macrocarpon, I think) which Burpee says has “edible tendrils” (tendrils = shoots to pea folks, I think). The Ottawa Gardener, writing about peas with edible shoots and tendrils, says something similar: “I’ve noticed that most recommended varieties are those with edible pods which may be [sic] because the shoots are less fiborous [sic] or sugary.” Andrew Barney says something similar about peas with edible leaves: “any variety with both p / v genes for low fiber in the pod would be a good candidate for this. Plants with lower fiber in the pods also have lower fiber in the leaves,” adding that leafcutting bees (Megachile spp.) also seem to have a preference for tender-leafed types.

So, what to do? I think for this season I’m just going to keep fussing with the netting to minimize the damage. But next year I’ll replace it all with stiffer netting that can be better fastened together with twist ties and such. It will be a lot of work but man I love fresh peas and I don’t like to share.

Anyone have suggestions? I’ve tried a fake owl (birds don’t care at all) but I haven’t yet experimented with holographic tape, threatening mylar balloons, or CDs suspended from monofilament. I’m think none of these will work. What I’d really like to do is leave a hungry cat inside the trellis cage. But I know that would be frowned upon by the locals. Same for the laser defense systems that some vineyards use.

Wine bottle drip irrigator

Instructions for making a drip irrigator out of a wine bottle. In case you’re bored out of your mind during the Covid-19 lockdown.

Wine bottle drip irrigator

Instructions

  1. Cut the bottom off the bottle. The above shows a 750-mL bottle but a 1.5-L works, too. I own a Creator’s bottle cutter kit (it’s fantastic) but there are videos showing other techniques.
  2. Drill a hole through the cork to accommodate 1/4″ tubing.
  3. Cut a length of 1/4″ drip irrigation tubing so that it is 1/2″ longer than the cork. Put a small piece of tape over the opening of one end.
  4. Put a few drops of outdoor glue into the hole. Gorilla Glue is nice because it tends to expand, filling gaps in the cork.
  5. Insert the taped-up end of tubing into hole, pushing until untaped part is flush. Take off tape (that was there to make sure it didn’t get filled with glue).
  6. Once glue is dry, insert cork into bottle so that the 1/2″ overhang is sticking out.
  7. Attach an adjustable valve to the tubing.
  8. Attach a 12″ (or so) length of 1/4″ tubing to the valve.
  9. Attach bottle to a 36″ stake (1×1″ wood, 1/2″ bamboo, or plastic-coated metal) using wire. Make it extremely snug so that when filled with water it won’t drift down.
  10. Crumple up some tulle (or flexible screening) to form a filter plug near cork. Tamp down using a long rod. This prevents hole and valve from clogging.
  11. Attach tulle (or flexible screening) to top with two rubbers bands. One rubber band is fine but the second is backup in case sunlight degrades one. The screening keeps out debris, but also prevents mosquitoes from ovipositing when valve is closed (and bottle is filled).

Here are some closeups:

Once done, situate the irrigator in your garden so that you can easily see the drip and adjust the valve without fighting foliage or stooping. This is why the instructions above call for a short length of tubing rather than something that fully extends into the soil near the plant (where you couldn’t see it). Evaporation from a falling drop of water is probably non-zero but I think the ability to see the drip rate is worth it.

When you water drop by drop, slowly, the soil has time to fully absorb the moisture. Drip irrigated plants thus need far less water, sometimes dramatically less. Another benefit is that water isn’t constantly splashed onto leaves, something that can distribute as well as activate pathogens. Some plants simply don’t like wet leaves (don’t judge). And many plants (such as tomatoes) also benefit from being constantly hydrated, something that is hard to accomplish with normal irrigation. Finally, plants tend to take up fertilizer better when it is slowly delivered.