Tag Archives: bees

Sorting through guests at my insect hotels

When the weather is cold and rainy in winter, I entertain myself by bringing the nests from my bee and wasp hotels inside for photo ops and cleaning. With a hot cup of tea (I’m in a cold basement), I carefully open up all the occupied nesting tunnels, then put the cocoons and larvae into vials so I can see who eventually hatches out in the spring. Here’s my set-up before I made a complete mess:

Removing the paper liners (here, straws from a local supermarket) from the nesting blocks is much easier with a pair of forceps. The blocks are necessary because if I just crammed paper straws into my bee hotel, every single nest would be parasitized by wasps that could easily get access to the larvae along the length of every straw.

Below are the cocoons of a mason bee, separated by mud plugs and covered with frass. They are probably Osmia cornifrons (pic of adult) or Osmia taurus (pic of adult), both introduced species that are frequent visitors at my hotels. Unwrapping the straws is usually pretty easy, but sometimes you need to use the forceps to grab onto the edges to complete the job.

I also had two stems filled with Georgia mason bees (Osmia georgica), a native species that has a beautiful blue body (pic of adult). It has smaller, bright orange frass and uses chewed plants to seal partitions. It also smells different.

Below is a visual reminder of why I need to sort through my nests each year: Houdini flies (Cacoxenus indagator). These kleptoparasitic dipterans eat the pollen balls that mason bees feed on, resulting in the death of the bee. So when I find them send them along to fly heaven. The common name is from their ability to bust open the mud plugs (they have inflatable heads for the job). Here’s a pic of an adult.

I also had grass-carrying wasps move into the observation panel, below, that I built a few years ago. There’s one nest near the top, and one at the very bottom, possibly provisioned by the same female. Because this panel slides in and out of the hotel easily, I was able to get a photographs of the adult, an egg, and a larva last year.

Here’s a close-up of the cocoon from the panel. It’s quite large. A photograph of a cleaned-up cocoon from a previous year is on my iNaturalist account if you want a better view. If you have a good eye, you might be able to make out a book louse (Liposcelis sp.) on the left-hand side of the cocoon. Here’s a close-up from a previous season if you’re curious.

One of my bee hotels is packed full of hollow stems, so for these I use a knife to split them open. Here’s a brood of potter wasps inside one of them. I’m not sure what species they are (or even genus) but I’ll know in several months when they hatch and I can get an identification on iNaturalist. And there’s a possibility that one or more of the larvae is harboring an internal parasite, too. Or at least that’s what happened in a previous year, when a beetle appeared (see my post about it). A beetle parasitizing one of my wasps was not on my Bingo card that year. I love surprises like that.

In the smaller stems I get lots of these cocoons, likely Trypoxylon collinum (pic of adult), a charming little wasp that feeds very small spiders to its young.

Although I enjoy looking through the nesting tubes, the main reason I do it is to make sure I’m not just breeding Houdini flies, pollen mites (pic), and pathogens that could easily spill out into bee and wasp populations near my house. I.e., if during my cleanings I felt that I was doing more harm than good to local native species, I’d shutter my hotels and find alternate entertainment.

As you may have noticed during the above, I love wasps. So if you have a bee hotel and get wasps, that’s a bonus, not a problem. And thus I implore everyone to not kill the larvae and the pupae simply because they are not mason bees. They both pollinate plants, plus wasps are fantastic at patrolling your vegetable gardens for pests, which they take back to their nests to feed to their young. If you’re on the fence about wasps, consider treating yourself to book on their biology and identification. I have Heather Holm’s fantastic Wasps: A Guide for Eastern North America. I’ve also heard great things about Eric Eaton’s Wasps: The Astonishing Diversity of a Misunderstood Insect and Seirian Sumner’s Endless Forms: The Secret World of Wasps.

More information

Below are my other posts about insect hotels if you want to learn more. If you have a question, send me an email via my Contact page.

Mason bee hotel construction

I built a hotel for mason bees, leafcutting bees, and hole-nesting parasitic wasps and thought I’d post pics in case anybody is looking for tips on how to make one. Overall dimensions are 12″ (W) x 25″ (H) x 11″ (D) and situated facing southeast so that it catches some good morning sun (the bees like that). I gave it three levels so that I can fuss with one level without disrupting all the tenants (bees hate that), plus used dado joints give the whole structure some stability when fully loaded. The hotel is elevated to 4 feet on a 4 x 4″ post so that I can easily take photographs without stooping.

Mason bee hotel

I also have a piece of galvanized hardware cloth that can be attached (pic below), after all the holes are filled, to keep woodpeckers away. The wire is held by six neodymium magnets glued into small insets on each side. I’ll probably redo it with larger-hole chicken wire, and make it project farther away from the surface. The back of the hotel is a slab of 2×10. To attach the hotel to a post I used a small piece of wood that is first attached to the post, then attached to bottom of the house via four screws (shown below). Everything is just scrap wood from some dismantled cedar planters. Below are some pics:

Hole diameters

There are hundreds of different bee (Megachilidae) and wasp species that nest in holes, and all have slightly different preferences for wood type, hole diameter, and depth, so I’ve offered them a variety of accommodations in reeds, logs, and milled lumber, all cut into 7-inch lengths. The reeds are from Phragmites, and each section is cut so that the end has a node, leaving approximately 6 1/2 inches of usable tube. Logs and blocks are drilled with variable sizes of bits. The large log on bottom right also has a mix of 7/16-in and 1/8-in holes, some of which are already filled up (with mixture of nectar, mud, pebbles). Directly above the large log are two smaller ones that show how you can insert 6-in paper tubes into holes. At the end of the season you can easy pull those tubes out and transfer them to a protected location or refrigerator to overwinter. The other advantage of these disposable paper tubes is that you can easily unwind them to collect, study, and clean the pupae. The other paper tube is just a drinking straw I found on Amazon. These tubes will probably not be used this summer but I have them there just in case (the tubes are used by Spring mason bees and my house went up a bit too late this spring to attract any, I think). Finally, I have a few large-bore holes up in the attic space just in case that might appeal to a larger bee or wasp, though I probably won’t get a taker.

At the end of the season I’m going to gather up all the wood and reeds and place them in a protected location until next year. I’ll probably end up building a hatching box. After emergence ends I’ll either clean out the wood for reuse or throw it out. You need to do one or the other or risk causing diseases, mites, and parasitoids to build up in your bee house. To give you a visual on one risk, here’s a photo of a mason bee loaded up with phoretic mites. See also the Maclvor and Packer 2015 article, below.

Design tips

  1. For larger hole sizes you want, ideally, 6 inches of depth. Shorter (4″) tunnels would be OK but can result in a male-biased brood sex ratios. If you want to encourage population growth, encouraging females is important.
  2. To keep everything dry on something this tall you need a generous roof overhang. Mine extends 5 inches beyond the front of the shelf, plus the wood sections and reeds are set back from that by another inch or so. If you have a shorter house you can have a smaller roof.
  3. Burning the front of the wood allows bees to more easily find their holes, plus the darker surface causes the wood to heat up faster in the morning sun.
  4. Don’t use treated lumber or fresh cedar. Kills the larvae, apparently, or at least that’s the recommendation on the internet.
  5. Pine is fine but I think harder wood is preferable because the drilled holes are smoother.

My goals for building this house are mainly for edutainment (please join my iNaturalist project if you’re interested) but a bonus would be better pollination of my kiwi vine and strawberries. But that’s not a guaranteed because many solitary bees are oligolectic (collect pollen from only certain species of plants), and I’m not sure which species specialize on Actinidia and Frageria. I’m looking forward to next year when I can put out the blocks for (larger) spring mason bees, which I think are good for early strawberry pollination.

UPDATE: New blocks for 2019

Here’s a photograph of the fresh nesting accommodations I installed in the above hotel. Blocks have a variety of hole diameters to accommodate a variety of bee and wasp species: 3/16″, 5/16″, 5/8″, and 12mm. Hipster add-on apartment is for smaller Hymenopterans and is made from a Saint Benjamin Brewing Little White Lies IPA (design by Kathryn Moran) can packed with 5 1/2″ sections of swamp milkweed and wild begamot.

Three-level bee and wasp hotel

Further reading